Cambodia Part 2: Phnom Penh

Getting there: to bus or to fly?
From Siem Reap we hopped a bus south to the capital, Phnom Penh. We bussed as we were told the roads were quite good and the buses are luxuroous, comfortable, etc. The roads complied with expectations (save the occasional hard break for crossing cattle), but the buses... ours was mediocre. I (Renato) have yet to travel in a bus I've liked. This across continents (West Europe, East Europe, USA, and now Asia). Bottom line, buses usually suck and tourists had better carefully consider their options if choosing 5-10 hours in a bus over an 1 hour flight. Generally, I'd recommend the bus if: (1) you desperately want to see more of the countryside near freeways and (2) you really want to save money. If neither, fly it. One positive busing memory (for Renato, certainly not for Patty): at a rest stop, Ren saw probably the absolutely most fear-striking food we have ever contemplated -- live tarantulas. We're talking 4-5in long bodies plus legs. Ren was in disbelief. Fry them crispy in order to eat them.

No tarantulas here; just bugs and bbq'ed baby chicks:

Political History:(as retold by the da Costas):
Thus we arrive in Phnom Penh (Pronounced P-nom Pen)... First, a little bit of history. 1975 was the fall of Phnom Penh . That's when the Khmer Rouge (China backed) defeated the Lon Non gov't (US backed) and marched into the capital. In theory, Lon Non led a democratic gov't. But Lon Non's gov't, too, wasn't all that warm and fuzzy—roving murderers and thieves are a better description. Photos books document their soldiers proudly carrying the heads of Cambodians they suspected of being revolutionaries. These were trophies.

Enter Sarloth Sar (aka Pol Pot) and his Khmer Rouge. They took the capital as the West was retreating. Suppressed, tired and hungry Cambodians (ethnically Khmer people) were cheering in the streets; the evil Lon Non gov't had been sacked. Unknown to practically everyone, 48 hours later Pol Pot's regime would begin a level of genocide unprecedented in human history. This is in 1975 and backed by China! All citizens were ordered to leave Phnom Penh immediately and go the fields. Following Mao Tse-tung logic, Pol Pot was instilling a return to natural Cambodia without the evil influence of Western industry. Banks, mills, healthcare services, sewage systems, and any visible industry was destroyed. Buildings blown up. Cars burned. Ultimately Phnom Penh citizens were taken to labor camps where they worked on the land with hand tools if not their hands. Families were split (actually outlawed) and individuals could be shipped anywhere. Dissension meant immediate death. Foreigners who didn't leave in time were killed. Any Cambodian who spoke any language other than Khmer was killed. Cambodians who wore shoes (ie., they were wealthier) were separated and eventually killed. Men older than 16 were put to work and underfed in order to starve them and eventually kill them.

Khmer Rouge were in power until in 1979 when Vietnam defeated the Pol Pot regime. How recent is all this? Our tour guide in the infamous S21 prison in Phnom Penh was a child in 1975-1979. Shortly after Khmer Rouge took power, she never heard from any family member again. She lost her whole family. Parents, siblings, aunts, uncles, cousins. She's the only survivor. Why? Just random luck.

Inside S21:

Today in Phnom Penh:
Eager to move beyond its gruesome history, Phnom Penh is rebuilding itself. There seems to be several ex-pats living in the city. The city is none too small. It does feel like a city with proper businesses, restaurants, entertainment, services and perhaps even gov't. Its not a top tourist destination, but it was something to see.

Us in the city:

The palace:

If you're traveling there, note that new hotels are probably springing up quickly. Its likely that there are better (more modern) hotels right by the one you're booking. Once you arrive, take a stroll around your area to consider alternatives. We did and we were happy with the results. This is true for Cambodia and Laos in general.